Hot sunny, a little overcast with a few drops of rain at noon but that’s it.
Now this is a day to remember. One of those “OK, I have had enough learning for today” days.
After driving around in the dinghy to drain it we’re off pretty early as we have a ways to go and a few things to do if we are going to get to Carriacou immigration by 3 pm. We motor towards Union Island, where we have to “check out”.
We turn the water maker on as we’re crossing and within a few minutes there is black smoke coming out and oil spilling in the ocean. This is NOT good. I don’t think it’s the water maker since it is 100% electric but shut if off anyway.
About 3/4 of the way there, the engine overheats. I ask Christy to turn off the engine but it won’t turn off. That’s weird. I go below and open the rad cap and of course boiling hot water shoots out as normal but I refill the rad. The overflow bottle lid is off and I think this is what is causing the problem. I go to reseal it and get almost scalded but manage to reattach it. Hopefully that’s it.
As we pull into Clifton Harbour we are acosted by a local trying to sell us a mooring ball.
“No thanks, we’re only staying an hour.”
“No problem Captain, I’ll let you have one for EC$40.”
“We’re staying one hour! How about $EC10?” This insults him and he says “How about $30”. No thanks, we’ll anchor.
We go to anchor in an open spot but the windlass isn’t working. Must be the circuit breaker. I throw it. Still doesn’t work. Something weird electrically going on here. OK, we’ll grab a mooring ball and if we have to pay, we’ll pay, otherwise we’ll get our clearance and dash. I’ll take a look at the electrical when we get to Carriacou, but we’ll have to get a mooring there too.
We pick up a ball, are approached by 2 fellas but clearly this ball doesn’t belong to either of them so we think we’re good.
Except Christy can’t shut off the engine. We try a bunch of things but no go, that shut off doesn’t do anything. I find the engine manual kill switch and stop it. That’s weird.
Oh well.
We check out quite quickly at Clifton, Christy dashes to the market for some fruit. Back at the boat, we tarry a bit as there is rain forecast and those are definitely rain clouds. We’d like to get going so we don’t get nailed a mooring fee (we’re cheap) but better to spend EC$30 then risk getting caught in a squall. We eat a bit of lunch.
I check the oil (it’s fine) and fill up with water now that the engine has cooled a bit. OK, off we go.
A mile or two out from Clifton I am at the helm and look down at the tachometer. It reads zero. That’s weird. I go to tap on it (like a Windows CTRL-ALT-DEL) and just as I do the engine quits completely. OK, this is not going well.
We’re drifting. Well we’ve got a lot of sea room here to float for quite a while. Christy goes on watch while I go see what is going on.
I go below and raise the stairs which opens up the engine compartment. The rad overflow bottle is boiling hard. It boils hard for a solid 10 minutes. This is scary.
I remove the alternator belt cover and immediately find the problem. I saw the belt back in Bequia and nearly had a heart attack but hoped somehow it would hold on for two more days. It didn’t. It is completely shredded.
Well that explains a lot. Explains why we’re overheated since nothing driving the water pump. Explains why the tachometer wasn’t working. Perhaps explains why the windlass wasn’t working and the engine won’t shut off (they are both connected to the alternator).
Only one problem. Martin has virtually NO spares on this boat. No extra filters, only thing I’ve seen is a half-used impellor which is good in a pinch. What are the odds he has a spare alternator belt? Not great.
Did I mention we’re drifting? I figure we’ll have to sail into Tyrell Bay and grab a mooring ball under sail. That’s a trick we’ve never done.
I go into the back bedroom and start rummaging around in the only place I think there could be a spare.
Saints be praised – he has a brand new spare alternator belt. We’re saved. It is hard not to be thankful for Divine Intervention on this trip – we have been saved a bunch of times.
It takes me 10 minutes to figure out how to get around the back of the alternator so I can get a ratchet on it (have to clear out the sink, remove the doors and there are a couple of panels there to remove). I loosen the alternator, slip on the new belt and then with Christy’s help we tighten the belt and put it all back together again. Takes about an hour altogether. A little freaky to have both of us down below while we’re drifting aimlessly but no choice – no way one person could lean on the alternator and tighten it at the same time without some kind of rig.
Christy goes back up top while I check the oil (OK) and add a whole lot of water that boiled off. Lots of water. “Start ‘er up!” I say. She starts her up. Milu starts like a charm, doesn’t seem to be any shenanigans going on below but I watch for a bit as she slowly moves forward.
The tach is working, that is a good sign.
We motor as fast as we dare into Tyrell Bay – we want to try and get there before 2:30 pm or so to make it to Customs and Immigration – they close at 3:30 pm.
As we’re pulling into Tyrell Bay I go forward and check the windlass remote. Working! It was the same problem. We anchor fairly well out where others are anchored but close enough to Carriacou Marine and Customs and Immigration. We hustle up, get in there on time and check in – we are the last thing the two customs officials do before the weekend.
Whew.
On the way out we run into Andy who we met 5 years ago, tho he doesn’t remember us we tell him it is his fault that we bought a boat and are now sailing. He took us to Anse La Roche on our 20th anniversary tour of Carriacou and that’s where the sailing bug rebit us. We joke a bit and he apologizes for making us buy “a hole in the water you pour money into”.
If ever there was a day that called for a double rum punch it was this one, but I am scared to drink as my foot and ankle throb like the devil all the time.
We have a nice dinner and chill out. It is quite a mild night for Carriacou and we sleep without too much rock ‘n’ roll.