15 January 2026, Thursday, Roseau, Dominica


Another nice day in Roseau. Rains often but we will come to learn what we have here is pretty dry.

We’ve decided to check out the south bay of Soufriere and Scott’s Head. Probably won’t get a second chance. After parking the dinghy, Roots is there and tells us there’s a bus stop right outside the gas station on the way to Soufriere. Perfect.

We walk over and wait. A couple taxis go by and offer to take us (one for the outrageous price of EC$100) but we’re sure we can just take the EC$10 bus. After about 20 minutes a bus goes by going the other way, back to town and says “You are never going to get a bus there. You have to go back to town.” We realize he is right, climb aboard and as we progress into town, he is mumbling half to himself “Wait all day there, never catch a bus”. The girl sitting beside Christy confirms this.

We get off downtown, board the Scott’s Head-bound bus and wait for it to fill before it departs. Memories of Indonesia, but this time only about 10 minutes.

It takes about a half hour or so to get to Scott’s Head where we disembark and start the walk up the hill. Of course there is a government agent there working the site for EC$10 admittance fee. At least she gives us the best snorkeling spots for after the walk up the hill.

It’s a pleasant walk with great views. Lots of historic signs tho many are illegible with age and weather deterioration.

Scott’s Head in Soufriere Bay
Bad picture of both of us with the town of Soufriere over Christy’s shoulder, Roseau over mine

Back at the beach we enter the ocean where the snorkeling and diving are supposed to be some of the best in the Caribbean. It’s very good, especially as there is a major wall drop off about 100 yards from shore. We follow the edge of it and see lots of fish – there are some big ones down there for sure. I see my first barracudas, a pack of about 4. They are super fast. The diving around Scott’s Head is supposed to be excellent, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean, there is much flow and the water is deep. Maybe another time. We haven’t dove in over 5 years.

Our own Sea Kitten

We climb out of the ocean and decide to walk to Soufriere. It is about a mile but a nice walk, there is a very pleasant and wide concrete walkway. There is a “bubbling beach” bar at the end, very pathetic and we don’t stay long. We decide to have a late lunch/early dinner in Soufriere. Search the ‘net and turns out the wall we are leaning against is for Teacher’s – a well-rated hole-in-the-wall. We decide to give it a go.

The food is good, though clearly made in the morning or yesterday, it is not hot. Pretty pricey too for a full-on dive. “Teacher” is a retired teacher and we joke with him a bit.

Walk back up the road and flag down a bus going our way. They drop us pretty close to Sea Cats and we head in. Christy is paying Chelsea (“Sea Kitten”) while I joke with Sea Cat’s brother Kendrick who lives in the basement and owns the two very nasty dogs caged up out back. There is no doubt they would rip you to shreds if they got the chance. Every time we go through the yard we pray the cages hold.

We’re a bit light with cash-on-hand and want to leave early tomorrow so later on I dinghy back in to pay Chelsea. On Sea Cat’s dock I meet Desmond, one of Sea Cat’s guys and we talk about the dogs. He’s been bitten by one and is no fan.


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