6 Feb 2026, Friday, Iles de Saintes, Guadeloupe


I’m up early, do a few exercises including a swim to shore and back, maybe 300m each way. The beach is pretty but a rocky approach and very tiny area to land the dinghy. Not worth spending too much time here, besides I hate our anchorage.

I walk up and over to a little picnic area overlooking Milu, then walk up to the village. It looks nice but I don’t stay long as I’m just wearing a bathing suit. All is quiet, it’s barely 7 am.

Swim back to Milu where Christy is waiting. Great to have a cuppa joe after a little exercise.

Anse Fideling pretty close to the reef

Pretty soon we’re ready to move over near the main town on the main island of Terre-de-Haut. It’s maybe a mile or so, we tow the dinghy. Really glad to leave this anchorage.

Instead of getting close to town and maybe taking a mooring, Christy wants to anchor further west close to Pain de Sucre. At first I am opposed, at least we should go check in closer, but it does look pretty good. A little monohull is just leaving so we take their spot and drop lots of chain in about 10m of water. I dive on the chain, it’s fine. Let’s go to town.

Out anchorage just outside the Bourg at Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes

We’ve been having water problems for the past couple of days. It’s gradually gotten worse (first the toilet, then the sump, now the water) and I’ve done a few things to try and fix it. Now I think it is the pump itself. We see if there is any chandleries in town.

Meet a nice couple on the dinghy dock, David and Jackie from England.

The town is lovely, we walk around a bit, find one hardware store, no pump stuff, she tells us about Brico which is the other way in town. (We go there but find they are closed for lunch of course.) We walk around a bit more, hit the two grocery stores and scope out a place for dinner. Apparently they fill up so we’ll come in early for dinner.

One thing for sure, this town runs on electric bikes, scooters and golf carts. A few gas-powered vehicles for some of the hotels, workers and deliveries but everything else is the former. Tons of them everywhere. We will probably get a golf cart, maybe Monday, to look around.

Dinghy back to Milu, unload our stuff, then go snorkeling over to the little beach behind our boat. It’s fine.

We dinghy in for a 6:30 pm dinner at La Fringale. (Stop at Brico first, no pump gear). Good meal, Christy has the grilled fish medley, I have the West Indian Beef Stew. Turns out the West Indian Beef Stew is exactly the same as Irish Stew – beef, carrots, potatoes and gravy. Good though, with lots of side dishes. A little bit of ice cream for dessert and back to Milu in the dark.

As I’m putting up the dinghy for the night, I notice a massive fish swim out from under the boat circle and head back under. I must have been mistaken, light reflection or something. As I am watching, he swims back out! We’re talking massive here, at least 4 feet long, thick and silvery. I call Christy and we’re both astounded at the size and how it swims out, flashes its silvery side at us then swims back under the boat.

Holy mackerel! (I did that on purpose) there’s two of them! They’re huge! Criminy, there’s three of them!! I should get the rod out but it’s late and I really don’t feel like spending the next hour gutting and fileting a fish so I don’t.

May have been a mistake.


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