We’re up early (!) to make the walk up to Le Chameau – which is the big hill, nearly mountain behind us on this island. We’ve dinghyed in, tied up and started the walk by 9:30 am – usually we like to start our walks when it’s blistering hot.

We head west towards Anse Crawen the (rumour has it) nude beach, following a young couple who look like they’re packed to do the same thing. We both miss the entry point of the trail and go almost all the way to Crawen when I ask her in Frenglish if they are looking for it too she says yes and we all go up and find the entry. They’re getting ready to start so we take the lead, pretty soon they overtake us as he is booking it, she is struggling to keep up. Less than halfway up the hill she is gassed and has to take a break, the tortoises pass the hares and make it to the top well before the young 30-somethings. Ninjaman would be proud.

Surprisingly quite a few people at the top. Great views and the remains of an old fort. Very interesting. We take a few pics then head down the other side. Turns out there is a concrete road on this side! No wonder so many people up there. It’s a pleasant walk down the road, easy switchbacks on the concrete road (no motorized vehicles allowed) then walk around the main road back to where we started. Overall about 2 hours.

I think what we failed to appreciate just how many scooters and golf carts get rented here. We figure the Saints islands are a weekend getaway for mainland Guadeloupians and that on days like this (pretty damn near perfect) a lot of people come across by ferry. By the time we get back to the Pain de Sucre pathway, there are probably 50 or 60 of them parked along the road.

I maybe exaggerating a bit, ask Christy.

We walk down to the popular side of the beach and there are a lot of people there. Christy wanted to swim there to cool off but there is hardly a spot to sit. No problem, we walk around to our side, there are 2 people there. We go for a swim, then sit on the grass and have the lunch Christy made. It’s very civilized. This side is a little less ideal as a bit of sargasso comes ashore but otherwise, I prefer it. Lots of shade, grass to sit on and a beach that’s actually bigger than the other side.

We head back to Milu and chill for a bit. No real plans, it’s a pleasant afternoon to do not much of anything since we’ve already had a fair bit of exercise.

As we’re sitting there, a dinghy rolls up and it’s Dave and Jackie from yesterday. They just came by to say hello. They come aboard and we have drinks (non-alcoholic all around though we offer the real thing). Have a nice chat for an hour or so.

After they leave, we recommence chillin’. I’m fighting with the water issue, David says he has a spare pump so we swing by on the dinghy for a little chat and to borrow it.

Back at Milu, the pump is a pain to install just to test as it is 3/4″ bigger than the old one so a struggle. When it’s finally in I try the system … same problem. There can only be one answer now, the forward tank is actually empty, even though the gauge says half full. I don’t trust the gauges on either tank but they’re not that bad are they?

Yes they are. Switch to the rear tank and pump out the air in the lines (this is another trick I just learned) and everything is fine. Sigh. Good news is our pump still works, I still want to get a spare when we get a chance.

Christy makes dinner, we go to bed, big fish did not return tonight.